Lady Anne Clifford

Born in January 1590, Lady Anne Clifford was the only surviving child of George Clifford, 3rd earl of Cumberland, Champion to Elizabeth I and a great sailor who fought against the Spanish Armada. He left the Skipton estate to his wealthy brother but his daughter, Lady Anne, contested that and, supported by her mother, won the lawsuits which followed. It was she who negotiated with Oliver Cromwell for permission to have the castle rebuilt after the Civil War. She is remembered for her many good works and the restoration of churches and castles throughout the north.  There is even a 100 mile long distance footpath named after her: Lady Anne's Way, from Skipton to Penrith, passing by many of the castles she owned.

The present entrance to Skipton Castle is known as Lady Anne's Steps, part of a Tudor remodelling.

The inner Tudor central court is known as the Conduit Court, because it was to here that the piped spring water supply was delivered. The windows were added in the 16th and 17th centuries along with the new entrance and a new Tudor wing beyond the watch towers, which is now a private residence.

Skipton Castle

I had a late afternoon appointment in Skipton, to collect my new specs. It was a lovely, sunny day for once, with more than a hint of spring in the warm sunshine, so I decided to drive over there early and visit the castle, something I've been promising to do for ages.

Skipton Castle is one of the most complete medieval castles in England, though it has of course been remodelled over the years. There was initially a wooden fort here to guard against invading Scots, built by Robert de Romille and dating to 1090, just after the Norman invasion. Soon afterwards a stronger stone castle was built, which passed into the hands of the Clifford family in 1310. You approach it through a substantial gatehouse in the outer curtain wall, with the motto (in Norman French) of the Clifford family: Desormais (Henceforth!) carved in stone above. Once through the gate, the huge watchtower, the central feature of the original defences, towers above.

There was originally a moat, crossed by a bridge. You would have passed under a portcullis before entering the castle itself through the main door into an inner courtyard; you can still see the grooves of the portcullis and the Norman arch.

The castle withstood a three year siege during the English Civil War, the last Royalist bastion in the North. An ancient well has recently been discovered in the outer ward, which is probably how the garrison survived during the siege. In 1645 a favourable surrender was negotiated with Oliver Cromwell. It allowed the garrison to march out with 'colours flying' to rejoin the King's forces. Cromwell ordered the roof of the castle to be removed and the walls reduced ('slighted') but the castle remained in the Clifford family. He later allowed the redoubtable Lady Anne Clifford to arrange repairs (so long as the walls were built less strong) and she planted a yew tree in the central courtyard in commemoration. The tree is still there.

The Norman castle had very thick walls, as you can see below, which is one reason it withstood the siege. The arrow slits allowed crossbows to be fired at invaders. 

Within the castle grounds there is a 13th century chapel, dedicated to St John the Evangelist.

Mizzle

It looked like a beautiful day unfolding through my window, so I put my coat on and went for a walk. I soon found that looks are deceptive. Despite the blue sky, sunshine and apparent lack of rain clouds there was in fact a constant slight drizzle, so light you'd perhaps call it a mizzle. It was as if the weather was acting like an overtired child; as though it had simply got into the habit of being whining and tearful and couldn't stop grizzling/drizzling. I still enjoyed my walk (the usual route) but by the time I got home the light damp had turned into steadier rain. I gather we've had getting on for four times the average amount of rainfall in the past month in this area, on top of a rather wet winter overall. I'm not really complaining, as the alternative of drought is just as bad, but I'm looking forward to some reliably dry weather now.

Camellia

It seems that I must always go to the dentist at this time of year. I know that because I walk to the surgery along a route I rarely take otherwise. On the way, there is a small, sheltered garden that seems lovingly tended by its owners and it has one of the earliest blooming camellia bushes that I've ever noticed. The flowers are a glorious deep pink, so freshly open that they were perfect and untouched by the frost or wind that so quickly turns them brown and shrivelled. My year isn't complete without posting a photo of a camellia on my blog! As for the dentist, I shall be going again quite soon as I have to have my first-ever crown fitted. Boo.

When it's grey

You'll recall the press photo exhibition at Cartwright Hall that I visited in January (HERE). Well, there have been a couple of associated talks by press photographers and I went to hear Danny Lawson speak. He is the photographer who took that amazing photograph (HERE) of Meghan Markle, caught in a shaft of sunlight on her way up the aisle at her wedding to Prince Harry, as well as many more instantly recognisable and incredible photos that have appeared in our newspapers and magazines. It was fascinating to listen to his stories and to see some of the camera equipment he uses too. Let's just say that I couldn't have lifted most of his cameras and lenses!

Seeing such brilliant work can either make me feel a little disheartened or inspired. February was such a very wet and grey month, I started to feel a little desperate to get out and find some decent photos. Half the time I didn't want to take my 'big' camera out because of the wet. I came out of the talk and got my phone out and took a few random shots, just to satisfy my urge to 'make something'.

There were plenty of puddles in which to find reflections. I liked the way the tarmac glittered, giving the appearance of stars in the sky. Then I spotted what must be the longest bench in the world. (!) The back of Cartwright Hall has rather lovely windows - and finally I found some colour in a winter flowering heather.

Embroidery

The brightly coloured dogwood stems in the winter borders at RHS Harlow Carr Gardens always uplift my spirits. I feel starved of colour in the winter. I think the shrubs make lovely abstracts - as, indeed, I suppose is the intended effect.


The colours were echoed in an exhibition in the library there. These were panels made by the Richmond and Leyburn Embroiderers' Guild. They had taken four seasonal photographs of the gardens and chopped them each into 48 squares. Members of the Guild had then interpreted each small square using embroidery and fabric collage. The resulting squares were then collected into wall hangings. The one pictured depicts 'Autumn'. In close-up, the work was exquisite, with a huge range of stitches and fabrics. Viewed from further back, the resemblance to the photographs was amazing.

I can't embroider for toffee... school needlework lessons sadly killed all my enthusiasm for such crafts. I can recognise good work when I see it though.

A girl inspiring the world

Hebden Bridge and the Calder valley are so prone to flooding that the people who live and work there are perhaps closer than some to the reality of climate change. It was no surprise then that the children at the primary school my granddaughters attend voted for Greta Thunberg, the young Swedish climate activist, as the woman who has most inspired them. To mark International Womens' Day, they worked with local artists 'Sand in Your Eye' to create a giant portrait of her on their school playing field. Painted in the kind of paint used for sports field markings, it will fade and wash away within a few days but it has created quite a stir, even being shown on the local TV news.

I think it's great that the school's pupils have such awareness and are inspired. My own granddaughters, even at five and eight, are able to have a sensible conversation about the issues. I was, therefore, sad and shocked to read the vitriolic comments that have been posted on social media in response to the news items. It seems many people still don't believe climate change is a reality, nor do they think primary school pupils are old enough to make their own minds up about todays' issues. The level of venom directed at Greta Thunberg herself is unbelievable. It is very sad that people seem increasingly to feel that it's OK to direct such fierce hate at those with whom they disagree.

My daughter took the photo above when she was walking their dog up the steep hillside, and she's kindly allowed me to share it here. I took the one below, from the roadside. You can't see the picture so well from that angle but it does show the scale of the work.

Incidentally, there's a fair chance I might one day in the future end my days in the buildings behind! It is a development of flats for older people and a residential care home. Being quite near my daughter's home, it would save her a lot of trouble if I moved there! I'm not nearly at that stage yet so I have no plans to move. It's just something we joke about... for the moment!

Still in a jokey frame of mind - I was amused to see a mannequin dressed in scuba diving equipment outside a shop in the town. I know they've had horrendous flooding several times in recent years but even so...  Actually, it is advertising a Dive School. I don't think they are seriously trying to get the locals to stock up on wetsuits.

Drum Machine party

I've featured Drum Machine on my blog before. They are an exciting drum collective, based in Hebden Bridge. I didn't expect to see them at the Piece Hall but they were there to give a party atmosphere to the opening of the new sculpture exhibition, 'People Play' (see yesterday).

Listen to them HERE.

I think I like their performances so much for two main reasons: firstly, being deaf, deep sounds are much easier for me to hear. Drumming resonates within your body in an rather engaging way. Secondly, it reminds me of my childhood, when we used to watch the Miners' Parades through my home town. Each coal pit had its own brass band and I loved to feel the bass of the drums vibrating in my tummy as they passed by.

 I recently had chance to join a short workshop on African drumming (not with Drum Machine) and that was fun too. I've not much sense of rhythm to be honest - but I didn't let that stop me!

People Play

I met my daughter at Halifax's Piece Hall recently, for a meal and then a trip to the theatre. We went to see 'Giovanni Pernice: This is Me' at the Victoria Theatre, a touring dance show starring the Italian professional dancer from 'Strictly Come Dancing'. It was colourful, cheeky and actually very funny in parts, with fabulous dancing, lighting and costumes as you'd imagine. We had a very good time, part of our Christmas present to each other. It's not often that just the two of us meet up separate from the rest of the family, so I enjoyed that.

Beforehand I explored the new sculpture installation in the Piece Hall courtyard. Called 'People Play', it has been commissioned from emerging artist Alice Irwin. It consists of nine large, colourful painted metal characters, exploring the concept of childhood, play and also referencing the treatment of children in the textile trade in Victorian times. I found it quite fun, though not especially engaging. Children (perhaps inevitably) seemed more drawn to it and to the holes and spaces within the figures. The Piece Hall is such a vast space that things within it seem tiny by comparison so, although the pieces were substantial, they still seemed a little lost in the space. But perhaps there is food for thought there too... 

It looked more interesting after dark, when a heavy rainstorm created reflections to add to the illuminations created for the exhibition's opening night.

Two Weirs

It's been interesting to monitor the river levels during the very wet weather we've had for the past several weeks. There was that one weekend where there was considerable flooding locally, but since then it's been other parts of the country that have really suffered. The Aire and Calder rivers have been threatening but have, thankfully, just about managed to hold the volume of water, at least through the towns. There are two weirs on the Saltaire stretch of the Aire, one relating to the old Hirst Mill and the other beside Salts Mill. Both of them were roaring and tumultuous when I took these photos a few days ago and they were quite splendid to see. Hirst Weir has been broken up due to various storms over the years, and is now more of a rocky waterfall (above). The weir at Salts is neater, with a lovely contrast between the glassy smooth river above and the waves below the drop. 

I took another walk in the park again yesterday and the river level has dropped further, good news for those further down the Aire valley, who have been flooded.

Step back a little from the water and winter is fast turning to spring, with spring bulbs  - crocus and daffodils - in flower in the park. These mini daffodils on the grassy rise in the park always flower quite early; they catch the sun. The larger species of daffodil, like those in the churchyard, are still coming into bud.

St Pancras Renaissance

My nephew had thoughtfully chosen The Gilbert Scott restaurant in the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel for our meeting and meal in London. Thoughtful because it is just across the road from Kings Cross station, from where our train departed in the evening; grand but not intimidating, it is relatively quiet in the early evening, with tables spaced quite widely and soft furnishings to absorb clatter; and they have a good gluten free menu - so it was ideal for deaf old me and my dietary needs. The food and service were excellent and it was such a delight to be able to converse quite easily, at least until the venue started to fill up with diners as the evening progressed.

I've admired the amazing building many times but I'd never been inside and it is even more amazing inside. It was designed by George Gilbert Scott, opening in 1873 as the Midland Grand Hotel, in front of St Pancras railway station. The original hotel closed in 1935 and the building became railway offices. There was a fierce campaign to save it from demolition in the 1960s. Between 2004-11, it was extensively redeveloped into a hotel and apartments. It really is magnificent. It would have been a crime if it had been demolished. My phone pics aren't brilliant but they give an idea of the grandeur.

Help, we need everybody!

Following the sound of drums, we found ourselves on Regent Street, in the middle of an Extinction Rebellion 'Enough is Enough' march. Extinction Rebellion, as you no doubt know, is a global environmental movement, mainly using non-violent civil disobedience to compel governments to take action to stop us reaching the tipping point of climate change, biodiversity loss and the risk of social and ecological collapse. Hundreds of activists were marching through London, I think hoping to recruit more people to the cause. They did appear to be a diverse bunch, with a few hippy-looking (what we would have at one time called) eco-warriors among them but many older people and families with children. It is a wide movement. It was quite a fun atmosphere, seemingly peaceful and good-natured, despite the dozen or so police vans tailing them, presumably there to incarcerate anyone arrested. I pretty much support what they are doing. We definitely need governments and big business to commit to some radical measures, both grand and small, before it gets too late (if it isn't too late already). It seems they won't act without being pressured.

Going upmarket

My sister and I had a day trip to London recently to meet up with my nephew and his wife. We found ourselves in the upmarket district of Mayfair, one of the most expensive districts in London, so we popped into the famous Fortnum and Mason on Piccadilly, just for a quick look round the foodhall. It's a long-established (1707) department store and grocer, eye-wateringly expensive of course but the goods are undoubtedly high-quality and not the kind of thing you can pick up in Sainsbury's. Miso and seaweed butter, anyone? I was most interested in the fruit and veg: such colourful displays to lift the spirits and tempt the photographer, even if I only had my phone with me.  Who knew there were so many different varieties of lemon, for a start?

The front elevation of the store is very elegant, with its distinctive eau-de-nil colour scheme. Above the door is a mechanical clock, out of which Mr Fortnum and Mr Mason emerge every hour to bow to each other!

Coppice pond patterns

It can be hard to find attractive photos when we seem to be having so many dull and drizzly days. I ventured up to the Bingley St Ives estate but was uninspired until I started taking pictures of the ripples on the water in the Coppice Pond. Even then, I felt they needed a little artistry.

Wharfedale views

Upper Wharfedale is the Yorkshire dale I am most familiar with and I love the sweeping views once you climb up the valley side. One afternoon I walked from Scargill House to Conistone Pie (not a pie! Just an outcrop of rocks.) Part of the path follows the Dalesway long distance trail. The stormy weather made for some fabulous and quickly changing cloudscapes. It was very windy, with a high chill factor, but I only got hailed on once.

Hardy Yorkshire sheep and dry stone walls are a feature of the valley. The sheep often seem as curious about us as we are about them.