Kirby Lonsdale

I didn't have much time to explore but the little market town of Kirby Lonsdale retains a pleasant, unspoilt feel. It developed at a crossing point over the River Lune and was at one time a busy and bustling place, full of drovers, packhorse carriers and farmers. Its weekly market and shops have always attracted people from a wide area and there used to be an annual fair every September. At one time it was reputed to have 29 alehouses to cater for all the thirsty visitors. Nowadays there are reminders of its history in place names - Cockpit Hill, Salt Pie Lane, Swinemarket, Jingling Lane - and the attractive mix of 17th and 18th century buildings and cottages. 

A churchyard in spring

Turning left at the top of the Radical Steps, a short stroll brings you into the churchyard of Kirby Lonsdale's parish church, St Mary's. I imagine it must be at its prettiest right now in early spring, with random sweeps of daffodils and crocuses among the gravestones.

The church (which I didn't have time to explore inside) has Norman origins, evidenced by the rounded arches. This doorway in the base of the tower appears to be Norman but has been subjected to some (not particularly sympathetic) restoration at some point. I really like the variety of colours in the stonework.

Turner inspired!

Talking of Turner and how he was inspired to paint the view over the Lune valley, I thought I'd have a play with my original photo (shown yesterday). There is an excellent iPhone app called 'Waterlogue' that gives instant and often very pleasing conversions of photos to a watercolour effect. Combining that with a bit of extra work in Photoshop to overlay some bits of 'ink' outlines resulted in the above image. Quite pleasing, I thought, in its own way...  though I'd only be proud of it if I had actually painted it for real! If Hockney can use an iPad, then surely a bit of experimenting with filters is allowable fun and can be construed as a sort of artistry. It keeps me happy anyway!

Radical steps to a famous view

After following the riverside walk from Devil's Bridge along the banks of the Lune for about 3/4 of a mile, you reach a steep flight of 86 steps, known curiously as the Radical Steps. I had to look that up to see why...  Apparently in 1820, a Dr Pearson obtained an Order allowing him to divert a public footpath that ran through his garden. There was much local opposition to this, and the steps that replaced the footpath became known as the Radical Steps because of Dr Pearson's strongly held Radical (liberal) political views.

A little to the right at the top of the steps, this lovely view opens out. Sketched and painted by Turner in 1822 (see here and here), it was described by John Ruskin in 1875 as 'one of the loveliest [views] in England, therefore the world'. That may be exaggerating somewhat but it is certainly a pleasant vista of river, meadows, ancient woodlands and rolling hills.

Devil's Bridge

It hardly feels like a year ago since I was at this spot before, but it is. You may remember my photos of the two bridges at Kirby Lonsdale. The older bridge in the foreground is known as Devil's Bridge. It's a convenient stopping off point on the journey from Saltaire to Cumbria, with a refreshment van should you be in need of a cup of tea and a bacon sandwich. The weather, which had been dull and drizzly, perked up a little so I decided I'd stretch my legs and follow a short walk along the riverside that had been recommended by a friend.

A tale of two bridges

I had a weekend away in the north-east west, and on my journey there I had a break at a well-known stopping-off point in Kirby Lonsdale called Devil's Bridge. You can buy hot drinks and a good bacon butty from a mobile café and (cause or effect, I'm not sure) it's a traditional meeting-up place for motorcycle enthusiasts.

It's a crossing point of the River Lune where many packhorse and drovers' rotes converged. Devil's Bridge was built around 1370, probably by monks. Legend has it that the Devil appeared to an old woman, promising to build a bridge in exchange for the first soul to cross over it. When the bridge was finished the old woman threw bread across it for her dog to chase, thereby outwitting the Devil. The old bridge is only 12 feet wide and was closed to vehicles in the 1930s. Another bridge was opened just downstream, which still carries the main road. I'm not sure who decided to paint that one orange....