Otley riverside

Otley is normally a busy small town but you don't have to walk far to find some space and tranquillity. The River Wharfe flows through the town, with parkland beside it. The weir dates from the time, not all that long ago, when mills lined the banks. Now a smart new housing development has sprung up, and the old Victorian engine house has been converted into a restaurant.

On one side of the river, Wharfemeadows Park and its colourful flower beds provides a place to stroll and relax. You can follow a path downriver to a small nature reserve, though I didn't go that far. On the other bank, a little park rejoices in the name of Tittybottle Park, where Victorian mothers and nannies would nurse their babies. It's only a few weeks ago that the whole of the area in the photo below was underwater with the bad floods we had.

I happened to bump (not literally) into some friends in the park. They live in Otley but travel a lot and I don't see them often. So that was a pleasant interlude. We conducted a brief chat at the required 2m distancing.

Otley odyssey

My car needed an MOT test before the end of March (in the early days off the lockdown) and my own garage, where I had booked an appointment, suddenly closed due to the coronavirus! I had to make a new arrangement quickly to avoid finding myself in trouble with the law. It was a 'necessary journey' and I managed to get the test done in Otley. I had an hour to fill while I waited. Otley is a market town, usually really bustling. To find it so quiet was very strange, though it's an unexpected bonus of this unfortunate situation, at least for us photographers. Instead of being distracted by lots of people and cars, the view along Kirkgate (above) leads your eye up to the moors and woods of Otley Chevin.

Normally, to take the picture below would be virtually impossible as there is always traffic queuing at the junction. The building, one of the oldest in the town, is the former Prince Henry's Grammar School, dating back to 1614 in parts though what you mostly see now is a 1790 Tudor update. Thomas Chippendale, the famous cabinet-maker and furniture designer, was educated here (as that blue plaque tells you, when you get close enough to read it.)

Otley Parish Church is almost impossible to photograph, well hidden among the huge old trees in the graveyard.

The United Reformed Church has a rather fancy spire - and yes, there is still a livestock auction market held in Otley, though no longer up that street. Otley is surrounded by rolling farmland and has always been a hub for the agricultural community. They have an annual agricultural show in May; I saw a poster saying it is cancelled this year.

Dob Park bridge

The main objective of my walk in the Washburn valley was to visit this Grade II listed, 17th century packhorse bridge across the river. The single span bridge with a high round arch is made of gritstone and paved with stone setts. It was built to enable horses with panniers to cross the river, even when the river was in flood. It carried the routeway from Dob Park Mill. Beside the bridge are the remains of a paved ford, part of a medieval monastic trade route and used by farmers and traders in Nidderdale to get their carts to the market in Otley. It's an attractive spot, though the river was quite full after recent rain and it was tricky to get a good vantage point from which to take photos.

On my way back to the car, I saw a red kite soaring over the fields. They were reintroduced in 1999 to the nearby Harewood House estate as part of a conservation initiative. They have since spread out across a wide area, a very successful reintroduction for what was once an endangered species. Although you often see the birds nowadays, it's still a lovely sight. They are quite distinctive, with their characteristic forked tail. I was quite pleased with this photo, as I don't have a very long lens.

The Washburn valley

A friend recommended a walk in the Washburn valley, just outside Otley, so I took advantage of a balmy morning, before Storm Ciara arrived, to go and explore. The walk I had originally planned set off down the track above... and it looked so very muddy further down that I decided to forego that pleasure! Maybe I'll try that in the summer. Never mind, I followed the minor road down into the valley, which gave some attractive views. The Washburn is a tributary of the River Wharfe, and in the late 19th century it was dammed to make a chain of three reservoirs, with a fourth added in the 1960s, built to supply water to the city of Leeds. It is an area of quiet beauty and tranquillity, beloved by walkers. The Six Dales Trail, a relatively new long-distance trail, passes through the valley, connecting Otley with Middleham some 38 miles north.

This area of the lower valley is part of the Dob Estate, a 'country house' estate that was originally a deer park and has been in the Vavasour family since the 1500s. It is mostly rolling farmland, with a few woodland plantations. There are working farms and some very attractive residential properties scattered about, mostly conversions of old farm buildings.

My walk took me past the gates of one large farm, where the road turned into a rutted farm track. The free ranging hens gently scolded me for disturbing them, with that soft, throaty, burbling cluck that I remember so well from when I was a child, observing the hens my grandparents used to keep in their large garden. 

Leathley

On my regular jaunts to RHS Gardens at Harlow Carr, I drive through a pretty little village called Leathley, near Otley. I always think I'll stop and explore... and I never do. Well, one day in early November I did, because the sun was shining and bringing out all its beauty. I used my phone to take a picture of the church and the sun promptly disappeared behind a cloud - and then the rain started! So I didn't get far in my exploration.

The building that catches my eye when I drive through is the row of almshouses (above) which have a beautiful view across the Wharfe valley. I've found online a conservation area study, which tells about the history of the area. This has aways been predominantly an agricultural area. It has various links over the years to nearby Farnley Hall (see HERE). The almshouses date back to 1769, when a school house (the two-storey bit in the middle) and four almshouses were built in memory of Henry Hitch, the lord of the manor, to care for the poor of the parish and to educate the children.

The church of St Oswald sits proudly on a hillock. It originally dates back to the 1100s with additions in the 1470s and Victorian renovations. The beautiful carved cross is a war memorial.

(Note to self: make sure you take a proper walk in this area next Spring! There seems to be lots more to discover.)

Otley to Fiji via Knotford Nook

The granddaughter of a friend of mine is planning to spend her summer volunteering for an organisation called 'Think Pacific' in Fiji, partnered with the Fijian government and aiming to improve health and educational opportunities for underprivileged children across the islands. She needs to raise some money to pay for her expedition costs, so a number of us got together for a fundraising walk.

We started by the clock tower and the buttercross in the centre of Otley, walking through the town to the River Wharfe, then downriver to some lakes known as Knotford Nook and back to the town. It was a gentle walk of about 4 miles though long enough for me on a very dull and rather cold morning. Tea and cakes afterwards soon warmed us up again.

I enjoyed it, though I usually avoid walking in groups as it doesn't really fit with stopping to take photos every few minutes. I'm always running to catch up!

I see that I've not shown many photos of Otley on my blog. I must go back sometime and take some more as it's an interesting little town, famous for its cattle market and for being the birthplace of Thomas Chippendale, the Georgian furniture maker.

There's a nice park beside the river, Wharfemeadows, which leads to a good children's playground and to the now-closed Otley Lido open air swimming pool. I gather there is a local group campaigning to have the Lido reopened.

The weir on the river beside the park has two hydro-electric Archimedean Screws installed to provide power for a new housing development. At one time there was a paper mill there and some of the old buildings have been repurposed.

The further downriver you walk, the more peaceful it gets, though there is a good wide footpath on both banks.

The mid-point of our walk was the lakes at Knotford Nook. At one time you could have a lovely walk right round the lakes, which were a haven for birds. Now, they are all run as private fishing lakes and have hefty fences around them, making it impossible to get near to the water or even see much. Annoyingly the fence's mesh was too small even to poke the camera lens through.

Walking back towards Otley, the route took us through fields at the base of Otley Chevin, the wooded ridge that overlooks the town.

There were lambs:

and blossom trees. This is a nature reserve called Gallows Hill, on the site where once there was a sewage treatment works (and perhaps before that, something even more unsavoury?)

They've planted trees, made footpaths and done some serious hedgelaying, a traditional country craft that aims to keep hedges thick and healthy, forming a stock-proof barrier and making them a haven for wildlife.

May Day in Otley part 2

For dancing, you need music and the Otley May Day maypole dancers (see yesterday's post) were accompanied by the musicians that play for the Buttercross Belles and the Wharfedale Wayzgoose morris side.

The Wayzgoose are a border morris side and have very ornate and traditional costumes, with lots of bells, ribbons and feathers.

The Otley Bellman (Terry Ford) also had a hand in the proceedings. He is Otley's Town Crier, an ancient role that involves delivering messages and proclamations to the townspeople.

May Day madness

When I was a child, my parents used to take me every year to the May Festival in Wellow, Nottinghamshire, near where we lived. I used to adore it, watching children dancing around the maypole, the procession and crowning of the May Queen and all the sideshows and stalls associated with the fair. I always remember it being sunny and warm too! (I'm sure it wasn't always.)

It was with some delight therefore that I discovered that the market town of Otley, some ten miles from Saltaire, was having maypole dancing on May 1st.  It has been a tradition in this country for many hundreds of years to celebrate the pagan festival of Beltane, a farewell to winter and a celebration of things coming to life again in spring. Many towns and villages used to have maypoles and some remain, whilst others are reviving the tradition. The Otley celebration was organised by the Buttercross Belles, a ladies North-West Morris Dancing side based in Otley.

It was all very good-natured, with children encouraged to join in. The end result of ribbons wrapped round the pole was not very precise! My childhood memories are of costumed and highly trained dancers making very neat patterns with the ribbons, the patterns varying depending on the steps of the dance. But who cared about neatness? It was fun.

Towards the end, the professionals did have a go and the result was a rather neater pattern, as you can see below. Of course, once the ribbons are plaited round the pole, the dancers have to do the same dance in reverse to unplait them again. That is even more difficult.

I found the occasion surprisingly moving; lots of memories came flooding back. The only thing that wasn't quite fitting was the weather. Although thankfully dry, it was absolutely freezing cold, with the temperature more akin to November than May Day!

Farnley Hall

I was fortunate to be able to go on a privately arranged tour of Farnley Hall, near Otley. It is a Grade I listed mansion, built in the late 1700s by John Carr, who (along with Robert Adam) also designed nearby Harewood House. Farnley Hall was built as a Georgian extension to an existing hall (just visible behind in my photo) that dates back to the early 1600s and is now called Farnley Old Hall. (I haven't shown a full photo of the Old Hall as it is nowadays a separate, private dwelling.) 

The Old Hall was owned and occupied in the 1780s by Francis Fawkes. When he died in 1786, without children, the house was inherited by Walter Hawkesworth, who adopted the name Fawkes as a condition of the will. It was Walter who commissioned John Carr to build the huge new wing now known as Farnley Hall. Walter sadly died in 1792, and his son Walter Ramsden Fawkes finished the house and furnished it.

The house has a special connection with the artist JMW Turner, who was a close friend of the family and often stayed with them. Turner's watercolours, including some of the house and the local area, give a fascinating glimpse into how it all looked, both inside and out, in the early 1800s.

We were welcomed by the present owner, Guy Horton-Fawkes, and the tour was led by two ladies with a long connection to the house, who were both extremely knowledgeable. It is beautiful inside, with the wonderfully symmetrical and well-proportioned rooms so typical of Georgian architecture. The interior has stunning plasterwork on the ceilings and walls; delicate white mouldings against a pale blue or duck-egg background are reminiscent of Wedgwood pottery.

The windows frame the sweeping view over the valley to Otley and The Chevin.

The Hall sits in extensive grounds, with some lovely trees, one of which is a 200 year old weeping beech - which I must admit I'd never heard of before. The pendulous branches touch the ground and form new roots, so the tree spreads out like a tent. The garden entrance has this rather imposing archway that, according to one of Turner's sketches, was once sited at the front of the Old Hall as its main door. The datestone is 1604. 

It was a privilege to be shown round such an exceptional mansion, to hear its history and to see its interesting and beautiful contents. We were made most welcome, even being treated to tea and cakes around the kitchen Aga. I can't say that I envy those who have the responsibility of preserving such places, especially when they are still family homes, though I'm really grateful when they do such a good job of it. I had a fascinating afternoon.

Chariots of fire

The top of Otley Chevin is rough heathland, bordered by a road called Yorkgate, which is thought to follow the course of a Roman road that linked the Roman towns of Ilkley, York and Tadcaster. These days it is fairly peaceful up there, though The Chevin attracts a lot of dog walkers. The sound of Roman chariots is replaced by the intermittent roar of jet engines from the nearby airport: chariots of fire, maybe.

Autumn tints

Autumn tints in the old woodland on the side of Otley Chevin.

Leathley

From the heights of Otley Chevin, I spotted the little village of Leathley, nestling in the valley beside the River Wharfe. I drive through it every time I visit Harlow Carr Gardens and every time, I vow to myself that one day I'll stop and explore it a little more. (So far, I never have stopped!) The village has some very attractive old stone buildings, though it seems to lack a real centre. I think at one time it was part of a landowner's estate and the population was mostly involved in farming. Nowadays it appears to be a base for wealthy professionals to settle, within commuting distance of the big cities (Leeds, Harrogate, Bradford).

I applied a slight tilt-shift effect to this photo. It seemed to lend itself to that 'toytown' treatment.

Otley from the Chevin

I went walking with a friend around what is known as Otley Chevin, a ridge on the south side of Wharfedale, overlooking the market town of Otley. It's an attractive area of old woodland and heath with some lovely views over the valley. The artist J.M.W. Turner often stayed with friends near here and his famous painting: Snow Storm: Hannibal and his Army crossing the Alps is said to have been inspired by a stormy sky he sketched from The Chevin. You can certainly see the weather coming in from a long way away.

Otley Chevin

Another view taken from Otley Chevin, looking east up the Wharfe valley towards Ilkley.

I am noticing that my new Nikon seems to capture much better skies than my smaller cameras, with less tendency to burnout. And the wider angle lens continues to excite me - at this rate I shall be saving up for a proper wide-angle to supplement the 18-55 mm kit lens I have now.  Sigh... it doesn't take long to start feeling lens envy... all those possibilities! Wide-angle, fish-eye, macro....  Must get a lens hood though, as it seems prone to flare, more so than the compacts.

Dunnies

I guess it's the same the world over: wherever there are bikers (or cyclists) there are bikers' cafés.  Dunnies (Wharfe View Café) is one such, pleasantly situated just by the river bridge in Otley.  It's been there as long as I can remember and there are always bikers there, either just starting a ride, having a pit-stop in the middle of one or congregating at the end of a day out.  It's what's known as a 'greasy spoon' and 'full English breakfast' (eggs, bacon, fried bread, beans etc) served all day, bacon or chip butties and strong tea are the mainstays of the menu.  Let's hope such places never die out, as they do add colour and life to the local scene.

The Black Bull

Otley is a contender for the title of 'English town with the most pubs per head of population'!  At one time I believe it had 17 pubs.  There are still a great many, perhaps because historically the town had several markets including two cattle markets, and was also on a major coaching route.  Many of the pubs still have archways where coaches and horses would have entered to get to the stables at the back.

The Black Bull is believed to be the oldest of them all and alterations revealed a 16th century fireplace and door.  It is said that in 1644, on the eve of the battle of Marston Moor, a decisive battle in the First English Civil War, Cromwell's Parliamentarian troops (the 'Roundheads') camped outside the town and drank this pub dry.  The next day they comprehensively routed the Royalist troops in one of the biggest battles of the war.  Sadly they wouldn't have enjoyed a pint of the excellent Timothy Taylor's 'Landlord' ale, as the brewery was not founded until 1858.  You could though!

Famous sons

Otley is famous as the birthplace in 1718 of Thomas Chippendale, the cabinet-maker and furniture designer whose Georgian designs are still popular.   His statue (well camouflaged!) stands next to the former Prince Henry's Grammar School, which he attended.  It's an attractive building, dating back to 1614 but extensively altered in 1790 in the Elizabethan style.  It is no longer a school. It was used as a courthouse and I think is now offices.

Otley was also the birthplace of Mike Tindall, the English rugby player who recently married Zara Phillips, daughter of the Princess Royal and granddaughter of the Queen - our second royal wedding of the year.  Reputedly the Queen asked him if he was going to get his (famously bent) nose straightened out before the wedding - but he said no! ("Off with his head!" she was then heard to mutter.... er, no, I'm only joking.)

Otley

 

Some of you may recall taking a trip with me to Ilkley in Wharfedale last year.  A few miles down the River Wharfe, the next small town is Otley.  The two couldn't be more different.  Ilkley is a gracious spa town, well-to-do and conscious of it, with wide boulevards and select shops.  Otley has a much more down-to-earth feel about it.  Its origins go back to Saxon times, when the Archbishops of York were the lords of the manor and had a palace here.  In the 13th century they laid out 'burgage plots' (houses on narrow plots of land) to attract merchants and traders. The town was granted a market in 1222 and grew as an agricultural centre.  There was a cottage woollen industry and then in the 19th century cotton and woollen mills grew up along the banks of the river.  Otley also became a centre for the printing industry.

It remains a solid little market town but it is not as popular with tourists and visitors as Ilkley.  Rather a pity in some ways, as it is full of history, but it doesn't somehow seem to make the most of its attractions.  I took this picture from the steep bank known as The Chevin, that overlooks the town.  Now preserved as an area of outstanding natural beauty, it was the route of a Roman road that connected Ilkley with York.