Inside Skipton Castle

Skipton Castle is remarkably well preserved inside, as it still retains a good roof. You can follow a tour through all the main rooms. The Banqueting or Great Hall, above, was the main living area in medieval times, used for eating, socialising and ceremonial occasions. It is a vast space. Originally, the far end would have been raised for the top table, where the Garrison Commander or the Lord, his family and his guests would be seated when they were resident here. The doorway you can see leads to the Withdrawing Room or Great Chamber (below), where the Lord and his family would have spent much of their time and entertained guests. It is said that Mary, Queen of Scots was imprisoned here for a time. The window looks out over the valley of Eller Beck (where the Springs Branch canal is now). On this northern side, the castle sits on top of a huge and sheer cliff, which provides an excellent defensive barrier.

Next to the Banqueting Hall is the medieval kitchen (below), in use from 1300 to 1680. It has bread ovens at one end and, at the other, a massive fireplace big enough to roast an entire ox on a spit. You can also see a serving hatch in the wall.

Between 1680 and 1900, the 'new' kitchen (below) was used. It has an old charcoal stove by the window and a Victorian iron range in the fireplace.

One of the exhibits that interests children most (!) is the garderobe containing the privy. It juts out over the steep cliff to the north and simply has a seat with a hole over a long drop down to the water below (actually, the canal nowadays). (Better take your wallet out of your pocket before you try it!!)

St Pancras Renaissance

My nephew had thoughtfully chosen The Gilbert Scott restaurant in the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel for our meeting and meal in London. Thoughtful because it is just across the road from Kings Cross station, from where our train departed in the evening; grand but not intimidating, it is relatively quiet in the early evening, with tables spaced quite widely and soft furnishings to absorb clatter; and they have a good gluten free menu - so it was ideal for deaf old me and my dietary needs. The food and service were excellent and it was such a delight to be able to converse quite easily, at least until the venue started to fill up with diners as the evening progressed.

I've admired the amazing building many times but I'd never been inside and it is even more amazing inside. It was designed by George Gilbert Scott, opening in 1873 as the Midland Grand Hotel, in front of St Pancras railway station. The original hotel closed in 1935 and the building became railway offices. There was a fierce campaign to save it from demolition in the 1960s. Between 2004-11, it was extensively redeveloped into a hotel and apartments. It really is magnificent. It would have been a crime if it had been demolished. My phone pics aren't brilliant but they give an idea of the grandeur.

A night at the ballet

I was lucky enough to be treated by a friend to a night at the ballet, just after the New Year. We went to see Northern Ballet's 'Cinderella' at the Grand Theatre in Leeds - and it was wonderful. All the city's Christmas lights were still lit, so it was lovely walking through the city centre from the rail station to the theatre.

The theatre itself is full of history, built in 1878 in an elaborate mix of styles: gothic, Romanesque and Scottish baronial. The traditional Victorian interior has tiers - the Stalls, Dress Circle, Upper Circle, Balcony (Gallery) and Upper Balcony, carefully organised to maintain the separation of rank for the class-conscious Victorians. There are still some boxes at the sides too. (One of my abiding childhood memories is the thrill of our family having a box at a performance in a theatre in Nottingham. I can't even recall what we saw, but I remember the box, vividly!) The Grand has, of course, been upgraded many times during its life and is now a comfortable venue with enough elegance to make you feel rather special.

We had excellent seats near the front in the Stalls, close enough to the stage to be able to see the expressions on the faces of the dancers, and with a glimpse down into the orchestra pit in front of and below the stage. Such anticipation waiting for that red curtain to draw back and reveal the performance...

These are all snaps taken on my phone, and I had to wait until the end when the theatre had emptied a bit. They do, however, give a glimpse of the theatre's breath-taking decoration. That's a massive chandelier at the centre of the ceiling rose, though my phone couldn't really deal with its brightness.

I couldn't of course, take any pictures during the ballet, so you'll have to believe me when I say it was absolutely gorgeous. I love that Northern Ballet performs with a live orchestra, the Sinfonia, and the costumes and staging were phenomenal. There are some photos on their website HERE. The company has existed since 1969, building from a small dance troupe of just 11 dancers to become one of the world's greatest ballet companies. In particular it benefitted hugely from the leadership, as Artistic Director, of the renowned Christopher Gable, from 1987 until his death in 1998.  The company now operates from a huge, brand new purpose-built studio and theatre space in Leeds, now under the direction of David Nixon.

New Year's Eve excursion

I went out with some friends on New Year's Eve, for a gentle ramble around Grassington. We stopped at the church of St Michael and All Angels in Linton, a long name for quite a compact church! It nestles very attractively in the Wharfe valley, where a bend in the river cradles the church and its graveyard in a kind of a hug. The church has Norman origins, as the two rounded arches (above on the left) inside suggest, but was rebuilt in Victorian times (1861).

It's not very fancy inside, but has a few interesting features including some attractive stained glass windows:

It also holds this royal coat of arms from George III's reign. After the reformation, Henry VIII wanted to assert his authority over the Church and royal coats of arms began to be displayed, to remind congregations of the link between church and state. When King Charles II was restored to the English throne in 1660, ending Oliver Cromwell's 'Commonwealth' period, it became accepted practice for churches to display them. This ceased in Victorian times and this particular board was, I gather hidden away in the back of a cupboard until it was rediscovered.

The roof of the church has some interesting carved bosses, two of which are of 'green men' with foliage spewing from their mouths. Originally a pagan image, green men are found in many of our churches and cathedrals. 

Some of the furniture has more recent symbolism: a characteristic mouse carving, that shows it was made by 'the Mouseman of Kilburn', Robert Thompson - a renowned ecclesiastical furniture maker from North Yorkshire, who 'signed' all of his pieces in this way.

Inside Burton Agnes Hall

I really enjoyed looking round the interior of Burton Agnes Hall. It is very well cared for and has a 'lived-in and loved' feel to it, despite the opulence of the decor. There are also some beautiful art works, including some excellent French Impressionist paintings and some contemporary tapestries and sculptures. The rooms are well-proportioned and the house has changed relatively little (compared to many stately homes) since it was built in the Tudor Renaissance style. I particularly liked the light, elegant, panelled Drawing Room shown below.

The Great Hall has some amazing carvings on the fireplace and the oak and stone screen.

The Queen's State Bedchamber, with a beautiful Elizabethan plasterwork ceiling, had indeed a very feminine feel to it. It was reputedly haunted by a daughter of the family - read the full 'ghost story' HERE. 

The King's Bedchamber had lots of portraits of ladies on the walls!

There were some nice details too, including a wonderful chess set, with pieces showing robed Kings, Queens, Bishops and the like. They were wonderfully generous in allowing photography inside (I wish some other places would be so helpful!) but indoor light levels are fairly low and my photo came out a little blurred as a result.

I fell in love with this painting too: The Ravenscroft Boys, by Philip Reinagle (1749-1833), court painter to George III. (A niece of one of the boys depicted married into the family linked to Burton Agnes Hall, which is, I suppose, why they have the painting). I loved the playfulness the artist has captured among the brothers. 

Above the entrance to Burton Agnes Hall, the date is picked out - 1601, along with the initials of Henry Griffith.

Wall paintings

It's the inside of St Michael and All Angels church, Garton on the Wolds, that is really mind-blowing. During the extensive Victorian restoration, commissioned by Sir Tatton Sykes of nearby Sledmere House, the entire interior was covered in wall paintings in 1865. They were designed by G. E. Street and executed by the firm of Clayton and Bell, who made stained glass. In the Pre-Raphaelite style, they depict scenes from the Bible. In the nave, many Old Testament stories are illustrated, including the Creation, Adam and Eve. There have been suggestions that this was intended to rebuke Charles Darwin's theories of evolution, published in 1859 and seen by some as heretic.

Scenes from the Creation story (above) and Adam and Eve (below). 

Below, the building of Noah's Ark.

Around the arched entrance to the chancel is a Jesse Tree, tracing the lineage of Jesus from King David.

By 1972, when the church was surveyed by the famous architectural historian, Nikolaus Pevsner (1902-1983), for his guide books, the paintings were seriously damaged and decayed by dirt and damp. In his memory, the Pevsner Memorial Trust undertook a complete restoration and preservation in the late 1980s. Now, they really are a breath-taking sight!

Whereas the nave holds Old Testament stories, the chancel has New Testament references, with depictions of the Nativity and parables like the Prodigal Son and the Good Samaritan.

I couldn't see the Passion story told on the walls but the carved reredos behind the altar depicts the crucifixion, as did one of the stained glass windows.

Below is the panel showing the Annunciation. 

Once my eyes had accustomed to the gloom (and I found a light switch and let the lights warm up), I spent the best part of an hour marvelling at the paintings. I can't think of another church where I have seen anything similar, though there was of course the amazing medieval wall art in the Cotswold church in Oddington that I saw last summer (HERE).

Inside Nostell

The State Dining Room, designed by James Paine

Sitting room lined with tapestries

Bedroom with tester bed, most likely designed by James Paine

The interior of Nostell Priory is jam-packed with fine architectural details, priceless furniture and objects, utterly breath-taking. Of particular interest is the plasterwork, crafted by two generations of the Rose family of plasterers: Rococo designs by James Paine and later the Neo-Classical designs made famous by Robert Adam.

Plaster ceiling by James Paine in the State Bedroom.

Plasterwork in the Top Hall by Robert Adam

Robert Adam ceiling in the Top Hall

It is likely that Robert Adam introduced the Winns to Thomas Chippendale, a Yorkshireman (born in Otley) who made his name as a furniture maker and designer, largely by producing the innovative "The Gentleman and Cabinet-Makers Director", a luxurious catalogue of furniture designs. With this judicious advertising and by making connections to some of the wealthy elite, he became one of the most celebrated furniture makers Britain has ever produced - a kind of 'Shakespeare' of the furniture world. He not only supplied individual items but designed whole room schemes. His relationship with the Winns was not always straightforward and there were arguments over unpaid bills and unfinished work. When Rowland Winn was killed in a coach accident in 1785, Chippendale was left with huge unpaid fees.

Nostell is home to some of Chippendale's best pieces and last year (2018), being the 300th anniversary of his birth, there was a special exhibition exploring his life, work and relationship with Nostell.

Chippendale cabinet

Random treasures of Cliffe Castle

Cliffe Castle Musuem in Keighley has to be my all-time favourite museum. It is crammed full of all sorts of quirky treasures, so many that it would take a lifetime to really see them all. Some of the rooms are furnished as they would have been when the house was a Victorian mansion, home to the Butterfield family. Then there is huge gallery full of stuffed birds, reptiles and animals, a relic of Victorian times that could and would not be replicated nowadays but that I find, nonetheless, absolutely fascinating. You can, for instance, get a close view of the exquisite markings of a barn owl's feathers, realise how large our naturalised brown hare is and see the delicate skeleton of a snake.

Then there are wonderful geology specimens: rocks and crystals with subtly gorgeous colours and intricate structures. Then still more human handiwork: paintings, ceramics, textiles, clothes, stained glass, tools... so much to marvel at. The displays range from the traditional glass cases to much more interactive, colourful and user-friendly exhibits, with many geared to young people. It's a real treasure-trove.

This colourful exhibit is a timeline, exquisitely embroidered as a collage/tapestry, with a rainbow display of related exhibits in the glass domes.

Nearby is this glassy-eyed creature. I forgot to note exactly what it is but I think it may be a coleocanth. Yikes!